Frequently Asked Questions
What is Radon?
Radon is a cancer causing, radioactive gas. It comes from a natural breakdown of uranium in the soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks, expansion joints and other holes in the foundation
Why should I test for Radon?
Nearly one out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state. Contact your state radon office for more information about radon in your area. The EPA recommends fixing your home if the results of one long-term test or the average of two short-term tests show radon levels of 4pCi/L or higher. With today?s technology, radon levels in most homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below. You may also want to consider fixing if the level is between 2 and 4 pCi/L
Where can I get a radon test?
When you are ready to test your home, you can hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use a radon device suitable to your situation. Also, you can purchase a test for around $10.00 directly from a qualified radon laboratory such as Airchek at www.radon.com or 1 800 AIR-CHEK. Home Depot also sells suitable radon tests. For further questions on where to locate tests you can contact your state radon office.
Call University of Nevada Cooperative Extension at 888-723-6610 for a test.
My home has tested high for Radon, now what do I do?
If you have confirmed that your home has elevated radon levels 4 pico curies per liter (pCi/L) or higher you will need to complete the following:
1) Select a qualified radon mitigation contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home
2) Determine an appropriate radon reduction method with your contractor
3) Have the appropriate radon reduction system installed
4) Perform post mitigation testing to verify the radon levels have been effectively reduced
5) Maintain your radon reduction system and inspect the system monitor periodically
How do I treat Radon and how long will it take?
Radon is mitigated by installing a system that will draw the radon-laden soil gas from beneath the foundation and exhaust it outside of the building, far enough away from windows and other openings that it will not reenter.
A reduction system typically consists of a plastic pipe connected to the soil either through a hole in a slab, via a sump lid connection, or access beneath a plastic sheet in a crawl space. Attached to the pipe is a quiet, continuously operating fan that discharges the radon outdoors.
How this is done is a function of the construction of the home, rather than the radon concentrations that exist. A home with more than one foundation can presents challenges to collecting the soil gas from under all portions of the building. However, talented mitigation contractors typically can connect multiple systems together so that only one fan system is required.
Crawlspace foundations can be more costly, since the contractor needs to install a high density plastic sheet over the soil and sealed to the walls and then route the piping to the fan. However, the added benefit of reducing moisture in the crawlspace, in addition to reducing radon, can be a real plus.
How much does a Radon system cost?
The cost to install a radon system can vary widely depending on the specific requirements for the system and the environment for which the system will be installed. However, the price for installation and materials for a typical job will range from $1,000 to $4,500.
It is important to consider that as with many things, the varied cost of a mitigation system may be a direct function of the extra effort taken by the contractor to conceal the system and to maintain the aesthetic value of your home. For example, some mitigators may propose to route a system outside a home in a place convenient for the mitigator but not disguised to protect the aesthetic value of the home. A quality mitigator will propose to route the system a bit further or, if possible, through the interior of the home with trim installed to conceal it considering the aesthetic value.
Always compare the contractors proposed costs and consider what you get for your money, taking into account: (1) a less expensive system may cost more to operate and maintain; (2) a less expensive system may have less aesthetic appeal; (3) a more expensive system may be best for your house; and (4) the quality of the building material will affect how long the system lasts.